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Pizzeria Bianco dishes out whole pies and daytime slices alike. Chef Chris Bianco has long split his time between LA and Phoenix, and he’s even growing his brand locally with Pane Bianco for slices and sandwiches nearby at the same Row DTLA complex. The main Pizzeria Bianco serves the chef’s famed wood-fired pizzas while Pane Bianco serves slices during the day. Looking back, it’s incredible to see how LA’s unique pizza culture developed over the decades. It likely started in the early ‘80s with Wolfgang Puck’s then-innovative smoked salmon pizza at Spago. But in recent years, Los Angeles saw a notable rise in non-Californian operators making the Westward leap by introducing New York, Detroit, and Neapolitan-style pizzas.
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With inventive pizzas boasting supple but charred crusts and levain bread with a wonderfully brown crust, Ronan is a haven for those who love carbohydrates. The place not only does simple thin round pies, but it also works square and Sicilian-style pizzas daily. Locations are open in Burbank, near Santa Monica College, Fairfax, West LA, El Segundo, and Altadena.
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This sports bar-meets-Indian-pizza-parlor has quickly built a following for shareable pies. Choose a base sauce from makhini (made with tomatoes, spices, and cream), a peri-peri vindaloo (made with a roux and Kashmiri red chiles, and fortified with a rich vegetable stock), or white korma (sweet onions, yogurt, and spices). Toppings include homemade Goan sausage, roasted fresnos, and chicken tikka for a choose-your-own flavor adventure. It’s hard to think of a more photogenic pizza than the square Detroit-style pies from the unassuming Apollonia’s on Wilshire. These dense, expertly cheesy pizzas are filled with crunch, cheese, and plenty of sauce, to be sure, but the place’s crispy, thin, round pies are sure to impress.
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Sheet Pan Pizza
For over five years I’ve been researching, documenting and photographing the restaurants in our area that manage to survive by turning “vintage” on their 35th birthdays. This has involved many thousands of hours of non-paid work. In L.A. County alone we have upwards of 70,000 licensed restaurants. We definitely have well over 100,000 places to eat out, and yet my list has always hovered at around 500 surviving vintage places, though 63 have closed since I started this project. The pie is too spectacular to let steam for long in a box. There are scattered tables and chairs set up in a default patio space in front of Lango’s glassed-in kitchen.
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Welcome to L.A.’s golden era of pizza: Try 21 of the best slices at these pizzerias
The arrival of Pizzeria Bianco in Los Angeles, its first location outside Arizona, has been long in coming. The massive Manufactory at Row DTLA — his previous, short-lived partnership with Tartine that included Bianco’s restaurant Alameda Supper Club — closed at the end of 2019 after 11 months. In June, he returned to the same complex to open Pizzeria Bianco. Danny Boy’s comes from one of NYC’s former Meatball Shop co-founders and is an homage to East Coast red-sauce roots. It’s in an unusual space, tucked away in an office building atrium, which is a lovely place to have takeout pizza.
Secret Pizza
Even then there was national excitement over the Bronx native — about the ways he was melding Neapolitan pizza traditions and New York know-how into something fresh. The Sonny Boy (a sausage pie covered in mozzarella he smoked over pecan wood) and the Rosa (red onion slivers as thin as a new moon, Parmesan, rosemary, crushed pistachios) taught many of us about the elegance of restraint. The ingredients never overshadowed the crisp, bready crust. Ryan Ososky makes the closest faithful rendition of the puffed, rectangular, cheese-fringed Detroit pizza that I’ve found in Los Angeles.
Dinner service, which began at the end of August, focuses on Bianco’s classic menu of pizzas. As of this writing, the restaurant was operating only for lunch, during which the team was experimenting with slices in other pizza styles. Options include wide, sturdy triangles painted with red sauce or, for a fun departure, spinach-cream sauce, and standout Roman-type squares covered with a mix of mild and sharp cheeses and thin circles of Meyer lemon. They hint at Bianco’s greatness, but I’m betting Los Angeles will better understand what makes him a legend when the wood-burning oven lights up at night. When he was sous chef at the outstanding Cotogna in San Francisco, he’d gild pizzas with very California combinations like lamb sausage and seasonal gypsy peppers.
I want to plonk down the moment I have my prize in hand. In 2019, after working at L.A.-area restaurants and hotels for 15 years, Jason Raiola started his own business, making neo-Neapolitan pizzas from a mobile unit. During the pandemic he held pop-ups at local craft breweries, including a residency at Whittier Brewing Company, before settling into a stall at the new BLVD MRKT in downtown Montebello in April. Look out for rotating specials like the Double Dragon — a saucy, spicy meatball pie — that showcase the smoky, char-dappled crusts he consistently achieves. Also, as in every American city, L.A.’s neighborhood pizzerias took cues from New York’s wide, made-for-slices prototypes or the pan-baked variations that flourished in the Midwest and made them their own. The cuisine was decent, and I particularly like my smash burger and biscuits gravy.
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The total cost of the house, with the added servant staircase, was a staggering $13,500, which in today's money would be nearly $400,000. Keep reading if you need even more dining ideas this month, including a new Korean restaurant from a Michelin-recognized team, a viral bakery in Koreatown and a soba noodle bar in Culver City. Springtime also invites us to seize the sunlight with midday meals. Thankfully, we have Addison to guide us toward the best of the best. Quarter Sheets began as a pandemic pop-up out of the home in Glendale that Lindell shares with pastry chef Hannah Ziskin, whose complex layer cakes border on otherworldly in their deliciousness. At the end of 2021, they began operating out of a small space in Echo Park that has mostly focused on takeout; the dining room opened recently and a full-fledged menu is slowly filling out with weekly-changing salads and desserts.
Locals also threw formidable hats in SoCal’s pizza ring. The result is Los Angeles being a hotspot for excellent pizza dough topped with local ingredients by chefs who obsess over sauce and delicious pies. Here are 19 essential pizzas to try throughout the Southland. With 80 seats split between indoors and out, the restaurant is built around a jasmine-enshrouded patio and set back from the street just enough to feel like a secret garden. There’s a marble bar and wood-fired oven for continental specialities like chicken paillard and a flamed-licked dorado. Bouchon alum Jacob Wetherington adds a few French classics to the menu here, like a tarte flambé and seasonal pastas like a Dungeness crab rigatoni with espelette chile and citrus tomato butter.
For his most traditional take, he blankets dough, spread over a blue steel pan, with a highly meltable mix that includes nutty-sweet Wisconsin brick cheese. Then he adds two red stripes — sometimes called racing stripes in honor of Motor City — down the center. Snack on the caramelized edges, which snap off in satisfying pieces, before moving on to the airy center. A stuffed crust situation with meatballs and garlic confit is about as crazy as I’m willing to go; you can tell me your thoughts on the $100 pie covered with A5 Wagyu and truffle oil, my forever nemesis.
His take on a supreme pizza — sausage, mushroom, onions, cherry peppers and sliced black olives — is textbook comfort. In a fun nod to the local Jewish residents, he renders a Reuben sandwich into pizza form, complete with pastrami, a smoked cross between sauerkraut and kimchi and caraway seeds generously speckled over the crust. He calls it “the Rabbi,” and you can try it by the slice as a special on Wednesdays. What started as a pandemic pop-up is now a successful brick-and-mortar pizza-and-cake restaurant in Echo Park. Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin are a match made in pizza-cake heaven, he makes Detroit-style pizzas while Ziskin zeroes in on some of the best desserts in town, which are layered slab cakes, princess cakes, and thick slices of mud pie.
Roberta’s wood-fired, slightly chewy, beautifully charred pizzas include classics that made the OG Brooklyn spot famous and are available in Culver City or Studio City. Try the bee sting with pepperoni and hot honey or the famous original with tomato, mozzarella, parmesan, caciocavallo, oregano, and chile. Always-rotating, super-fresh vegetable dishes, well-mixed cocktails, and puffed-up pizza dough masquerading as bread and served with creamy cultured butter make this more than the average pizza joint. Former Bootleg Pizzeria operator Kyle Lambert is a deep-dish Detroit-style pizza specialist. These square slices are plush, made with naturally fermented dough that features an ever-so-slight tangy flavor.
New, compelling pizza restaurants open with amazing frequency these days. For this guide to 21 favorites I’ve included a couple of places that launched early in 2023 and quickly established their baseline excellence. Most have been around for at least a few years, including several darlings of the scene that began as pandemic-era startups and found lasting audiences. Collectively, the range of delicious possibilities gleaned from the template of crust, sauce and cheese is astounding. I’ve been eating Chris Bianco’s pizzas for half of my life, beginning in 1997 when the first Pizzeria Bianco had been operating in Phoenix for three years.
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